Priorat is a hot region in more than one sense of the word - the first being the baking Mediterranean climate that exists along the north east coast of Spain. The second refers to its rocket-like climb into the upper echelon of sought-after wines in the international market. The former is a direct cause of the latter. Because of the climate, these wines are high in alcohol, dense in body, and big on fruit£ a veritable check list guaranteeing popularity in the emerging wine market. But the key to balance and restraint in Priorat is elevation, which causes cooler nights, retention of acidity and therefore balance. This wine is the answer to all the modern, masculine style wines that are pouring out of Priorat. Sara Perez, the talented winemaker at Mas Martinet, displays restraint, using no new oak on this cuvee, which is highly unusual for the area. The wine is filled with dark fruits and notes of coffee and tobacco. Still a big wine compared to most, but this is a sleek, clean wine compared to its over-the-top, out-to-prove-something brethren.